1/22/2006

Kalorama Ken gives Viridian 4 / 5 stars


I know, I know ... Kalorama Ken has been falling down on the job. Not many posts lately, but I've been busy enjoying the city!

One of my recent surprises is Viridian (1515 14th St. NW; 202-234-1400) just off Logan Circle. I was wary after looking in the windows on a stroll ... the stark white walls and white furniture with floor to ceiling white shears suggested the experience inside would be cold, obnoxious and expensive.

Not so.

In the evening, when the dining room is awash with candlelight, the room is actually quite warm and comfortable. The large tables for two and comfortable chairs are spaced well for privacy, yet several community tables kick up the fun, social atmosphere. The bar is well designed and the bartenders are friendly and efficient. Cocktails are reasonably priced and high octane ... essential to get a good review from Kalorama Ken.

So on to the food. The menu is vegetarian and vegan friendly, but not judgmental and offers several choices for carnivors. Aside from one cheese offering, the selections are dairy free (that means no butter or cream). Now to me, cuisine without butter and cream is like a caffeine free diet Coke, but I honestly didn't miss it at Viridian. The adept use of oil and vegetable puree give sauces body and richness, and helps to highlight the quality ingredients. Bread is served with assorted squash and root purees that were so buttery in texture that I was convinced they had cheated.

The meal starts with heavy bread and complimentary dollops of sesame and ginger slaw served on large tablespoons. My date and I shared a scallop and brussel sprout appetizer. The bright green, perfectly-cooked sprouts were as tasty as the seafood and the portions were generous. Yes, I said brussel sprouts. I know. Crazy.

My buffalo filet was perfectly cooked and topped with a zesty and sweet balsamic vinegar reduction. My date's salmon trout (a pink-hued trout) was also very good. The vegetables were all exceptional, as one might expect in a vegetarian joint.

Our $30 bottle of wine was an unknown, but was remarkable. I wrote down the vintage and vineyard on a napkin that I subsequently lost during darts at the Brickskellar.

So what's the catch?

Well. For starters, the waiter needed to take a blue pill. He was very well informed and friendly, but he just wouldn't shut up. I finally interrupted with a stern "THANK YOU", which seemed to work, but only until his next trip back to ask how we liked the food. "It's great, thanks" was not, apparently, sufficient, as he stayed for a few more minutes to inquire about our favorite aspects of the meal. Luckily, he got busy and left us alone for the second half of the meal.

But the biggest catch, unfortunately, is that if you have not yet tried Viridian, you may have missed your chance. Apparently the executive chef, the sommelier, and the general manager have all resigned as of last week. This does not bode well for the future of my new favorite eatery.

I'll try it again in early February after the staff change and report back.